We are telling you what the good half of the world will smell like this spring.
We did not systematize our selection of "spring" flavors. Why fit the definition of what by its very existence is intended to emphasize human individuality and originality. All perfumes noted by us are different. Despite the inevitable intersections and similarities of the individual components, they cannot be matched with the same comb. These are not just “fruit-floral-sensual-sunny” compositions in bottles decorated with flowers (it is logical to bloom time). We are talking about complex, thoughtful smells that have been heard, understood and chosen by women in different parts of the world.
We also did not pass by, everyone chose and loved his own, but at the same time he “paid tribute” to all participants of the perfumery charts. Seasonality in matters of "beauty" is increasingly becoming a thing of the past. In the summer, you can easily find ud and incense (and shudder, because in the heat it is still heavy artillery), and in the winter to sit in the office, like in a flower shop, or shiver from the frosty absinthe notes. So, the five most striking perfume events of the spring, which can not be missed.
American history: 1957, Chanel, Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection
Chanel House plays confidently and efficiently in its territory, and, as we know, is almost always the key to success. The inexhaustible bright heritage created and perfectly built by the greatest Mademoiselle is an inexhaustible source of inspiration for designers, makeup artists and perfumers. What is nice, each new story fits well into modernity, elegantly combining strong classics with current trends. The fragrance of 1957 is a clear example of the above. The numbers that became the name, of course, are not random. Gabrielle Chanel loved America, America loved Gabrielle Chanel (see also: “How Coco Chanel did not become Queen of England, and 14 more amazing facts about her”).
Gabriel Chanel in Dallas, Texas, 1957
In 1957 in the United States she was recognized as the most influential fashion designer of the 20th century. In the same year, the largest Chanel boutique was opened in New York. Actually, this triumph is dedicated to the new chapter of the Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection. Although there is still a lot to do: 19 is Mademoiselle’s birthday, 57 is the number of the house where the boutique was located. However, enough of numerology, the numbers rarely make us buy perfumes. Talk about the flavor itself. The perfumer of the Chanel house Olivier Polzh, who lived and worked in the USA for several years, to my question “What does America smell like?” Answered: “Freshness, sensuality and purity”.
In order to convey this "unity of opposites," he used white musk. And not just musk, but 8 different types of musk. Step by step, exploring a new territory for him. Olivier Polzh managed to create a surprisingly harmonious composition, which, I think, simply can not "not like". There is nothing to “dislike”: everything sounds so good and smooth. In addition, musk is one of the most "personal" components in perfumery. On the skin it will always sound different. Everyone will hear something different in it – woody, spicy, honey and even floral notes. In fact, 1957 is the quintessence of the Chanel style: naturally, restrained and subtle.
Solo: Solo Ella, Loewe
Everyone loves the male fragrance Solo Loewe. Laconic, uncompromising, businesslike and at the same time romantic smell for many years remains one of the best-selling in the category for him. I must say that this is a well-deserved success. And this success inspired the brand to create “something like that,” but this time for women. Thus, a simple rectangular bottle adorned with an orange cap, which not only its appearance, but also its content, proclaims the duality of any bright personality.
The fragrance is addressed to "free, daring, controversial and self-confident" girls. But this says little, because, for example, I find it difficult to recall the spirits addressed to "sluggish, enslaved, humiliated, and offended." But the composition and the approach to it really deserve attention. In fact, this is a small professional revolution.
Firstly, this perfumery water contains 20% of natural essential oils, which is a unique phenomenon in itself. Secondly, in contrast to the traditional olfactory pyramids, a linear structure is observed here: opposite chords are interconnected so that each involved note sounds perfect and recognizable (and it is always nice). More specifically: a floral chord made from sambac jasmine and orange flowers is contrasted to the wet notes of green tea, and a dry woody chord made from vanilla, amber and cedar is combined with a fruit smoothie made from green apple, peach and bitter orange. In a word, it is definitely worth listening to, and maybe even carrying it home.
Game in Allegory: Aqua Allegoria, Guerlain1 / 4
Three new fragrances appeared at once in the Aqua Allegoria collection – Flora Cherrysia, Coconut Fizz and Ginger Piccante. All of them fit perfectly into the concept of "the freshness of nature and other pastoral pleasures." Flora Cherrysia is reminiscent of a postcard from Japan with all the necessary attributes of sakura blooming – pink and a bright sweet aroma, conveyed with the help of notes of cherry flowers, violets and white musk. Coconut Fizz does what it is supposed to do things, denoted by the word "coconut" – takes it to a distant sandy beach in the Indian Ocean, buries it in white sand and refreshes with turquoise splashes.
In this case, everything is not as sweet as it could be … Guerlain coconut is water with salty freshness, seasoned with freesia notes and tonka bean. Ginger Piccante in a French way beats the theme of Asia, balancing on the fine line between candied ginger and rose. As you can see, there is a choice. But what is especially interesting for us is the new direction in which one of the oldest perfume houses is going to develop. Together with the spring novelties, he begins to actively lobby for the theme of mixing aromas. Since each composition of Aqua Allegoria is always built around one specific component, the scope for imagination is almost unlimited.
Pure art: Rose Kabuki and Holy Peony, Maison Christian Dior collection 1/2
Find a perfume collection (and a collection for the home) Maison Christian Dior is possible only in special perfume boutiques. Such pathos is not accidental: each fragrance is positioned as a work of art, which is revealed only in a special atmosphere, and most importantly – with the right mood. Nothing vain. Only full immersion in the world of high perfume.
We are interested in the last two new items from this collection, which are perfect for a spring “wardrobe”. The aroma of Rose Kabuki sounds subtle and delicate, fascinating like a meditation. He is akin to spiritual practice, opens the third eye, allowing you to distance yourself from the hustle and bustle and enjoy the beauty in a state of complete harmony with the world. The duet to absolutes and essences of Damascus Rose, shrouded in musk, sounds soft, very Japanese, without disturbing someone else’s living space. Perhaps this is the most abstract rose from the entire collection of Dior.
Another spring premiere from the same noble collection is Holy Peony fragrance. The perfumer of the House of Dior Francois Demachi created him impressed by the flowers seen in the botanical garden of the Isola Madre island on Lake Maggiore, as well as from scarlet peonies with large velvety petals that grow in Yunnian Province of China. Interestingly, the peony in reality almost does not smell, so recreate its flavor is quite a difficult task. In this case, Francois Demachy added a bright fruit accord with strawberry-raspberry “filling” to the notes of peony and rose. It turned out to be dynamic, cheerful and very “girlish”.
Everything in the garden: The Alchemist’s Garden, Gucci collection
Before we had time to look back, Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele changed the world. Men dressed in pink coats, and women humiliated fingers with lion faces and giant bees. Mankind was confused before the choice, where, in fact, carry themselves – to the flora or fauna. But not such Alessandro Michele man to stop there. Now he simply took and sent everyone to the garden, or rather to the alchemical laboratory, where ancient recipes and rare components are collected to obtain (no, not a philosophical stone) unique and very, very personal flavors.
In this case, “very, very personal” is not a sign of exaltation, but a statement of fact. Seven variants of perfumery water, four types of oils, three variants of fragrant water – all this can be mixed in an infinite number of options. Oils and fragrant water create a plume, and perfumery water (beats, amber, violet, iris, mimosa, rose and wood) sets the tone for the whole ensemble or sounds independently. The compositions were naturally composed by a professional – a brilliant perfumer Alberto Morillas. In his work he was guided by the history of smells and did everything as the old masters once did: he studied the details and nuances, added a little mysticism to each bottle.
What are only the names of perfumes – "Voice of a Snake", "Eyes of a Tiger", "Tears of Iris", "Frosty Spring" … As they say, you can not even smell, everything is clear! And just a few words about the design (what a Gucci without design). The bottles were developed under the influence of the vials stored on the wooden shelves of the old pharmacies, the intricate pharmaceutical jars and the first perfume containers (read also: “The 5 most“ crazy ”perfume bottles”). All this is hidden in painted bags and rests in weighty boxes. It’s hard to add something else. Watch and enjoy.