When the roar of the engine becomes poetry, and gasoline – divine ambrosia.
French perfumer-mnogosanochnik Pierre Guillaume never fails. Despite the regular production of fragrances within several lines of its brand, it never repeats and always is surprising. He is adored by the press and industry insiders, he is applauded at the Pitti Fragranze perfume exhibition, and in the store, customers linger on his bottles longer than usual – because every fragrance always has its own story behind the scenes, not recognizing which is equivalent to a small crime.
Mécanique Du Désir waited with a special breath. After all, Pierre said that his “green period” in perfumery was over – almost all the last flavors were with “green” notes (bitter, tickling in the nose, herbal). He played enough with galbanum and hinoki and is now ready for new experiments. The idea of a new flavor spun around the French word “cambouis” – this is a used product in an automobile engine in the form of dirty, black, oily and corrosive lubricant. The French also translate the name Mécanique Du Désir in two ways: that is how the collectors lavishly call their vintage cars, and psychology reflects on the love process.
Photos from Instagram account Kendal Jenner, whose family is known for maniacal passion to collect vintage cars.@kendalljenner
Pierre Guillaume recalls his childhood when he and his father spent whole days in the garage. “As a true collector, he tried to convey to me the love and understanding of the beauty of vintage engines. He with great patience and passion restored his Austin Heylisa, Jaguars and Mercedes, plunging his hands to the very elbows in the bowels of these magnificent sculptures on wheels. Every night we returned home, smeared from head to foot with this black grease. It is amazing how not the most pleasant smell can be so attractive. Although it is associated with the happiest moments in my life, all this "motor sweat" with its harshness of gasoline and oil caused some uneasy trepidation in my soul. Later, as an adult, I read Jacques Lakarrie's book “Ce bel et vivace aujourd’hui” and, having understood all the poetry of this black substance, decided to return to reconstructing the feelings that had sped me. The challenge in the work on Mécanique Du Désir was that I wanted to leave the deliberately male territory. Working with the smells of tires torn to shreds, steaming asphalt and diesel does not necessarily draw in the head of the males in greasy overalls … a girl in a leather jacket there can also easily appear. "
Cover of the book by Jacques Lacarrier "Ce bel et vivace aujourd’hui"Fashion photography 1972
Going into the garage, gaze open rows of luxury retro cars. Perfectly smooth enamel and glittering chrome steel sound like metal aldehydes and mandarin oil. Hands are immersed in the labyrinths of the mechanisms of the bonnet of the car; the main star of the composition, the sticky kidney of the black currant, appears on the scene. Its inherent sweetness with the smell of chemical sulfur due to well-adjusted concentration recreates the coolness of aluminum, and not the synthetics of hairspray. And finally, the very black grease that made the car breathe and move an hour ago — a dark and exciting substance made of guaiac resin, violet leaf, musk and amber.
Retro photo of the 1920s
The aroma, like an engine, rumbles, smokes and cools. If it is internal flesh, it is entirely technical. Immersion with nothing like sensations.
Mécanique Du Désir by Pierre Guillaume
Top notes: aldehydes, black currant kidney absolutes, mandarin oil
Heart notes: violet leaf absolutes, guaiac tree
Base notes: musk, amber.
Price: 11 900 rubles (50 ml)
Where can one buy: aroma-teka.ru