Grandma's Chest: Top 5 "old-fashioned" fragrances for connoisseurs »class =" js-openGraph "data-meta-name =" og: title

We recall the best of the timeless fragrances that have become the legends of perfumery.

If the fragrance has become vintage, we can assume that it has taken a special place in the history of perfumery – this composition will be worn for a long time, with relentless delight and adoration. True secrets this success is as much as the successful aromas: each “titan” of perfumery can boast of its own recipe for universal recognition. Only the legendary compositions, over which time was not powerful, were in our selection.

Youth Dew by Estee Lauder

Estee Lauder, 1966Youth Dew by Estee Lauder

In 1953, Mrs. Estee Lauder, a brand of makeup cosmetics, began to engage in perfumery. In those years, American women wore perfume only on special occasions: most often they took the cherished bottles from Europe, while the American perfumery was still waiting for its high point. That all changed with the arrival of the "Dew of Youth" – "Youth Dew" – from Estee Lauder.

According to legend, to draw attention to the new product, the inspirer of the fragrance Este Lauder defiantly smashed a bottle of scent in the middle of the cosmetics department of Galeries Lafayette, a large French department store. The French, the first perfumers in Europe, could not help but appreciate the merits of a new player. Complicated and controversial, flowery amber with a sensual aura of musk, incense and bourbon vanilla, Youth Dew gave a spectacular start to American perfume and a democratic fragrance that could be tried on in the afternoon and evening. Soon, Este Lauder’s daring and spicy debut perfume became the object of passion not only for American women, but also for many women around the world, and turned into a real success story (see also “Wise phrases of the great Estee Lauder”).

Mitsouko by Guerlain

Mitsouko perfume, 1946

Back in 1919, Europe was very passionate about Japanese culture. Residents of European countries copied the style of the Japanese, listened to their music, read to the holes the works of art dedicated to the land of the rising sun. All this could not pass by the attention of such a sensitive man as Jacques Gerlaine. He needed only a suitable source of inspiration in order to move from an idea that was ripe in his head to creative work.

And this source was the work of Claude Ferrer's “Battle” – the love story of a Japanese girl Mitsuko and a soldier, who were forever divided by the war. In the process of creating the fragrance, Gerlaine got rid of the deliberate tragedy of history and concentrated on the light mystery of the fragrance pyramid: its core was a combination of chypre and peach, complemented by jasmine, oak moss and rose. Mitsouko has become the most mysterious sound of perfumery of the first half of the last century, and this year marks its centenary success – a mark that only the best of the best manage to overcome.

Madame Rochas from Rochas

Madame RochaMadame by Rochas, 1960

If you are a connoisseur of perfume classics, then this vintage fragrance is simply impossible to miss. He became a favorite female adornment for the ladies of the 60s and was the most French perfume. Of course, he was not imprinted in his memory as vividly as, for example, the cult Chanel No. 5, but became a sign of luxury for the elect. The muse of the famous couturier of Marcel Rocha was his wife Helene, and the unsurpassed “jasmine flower”, which was also used to create the famous Caleche by Hermès, became the basis for the feminine pyramid of fragrance.

Joy by Jean Patou

Jean PatouJoy by Jean Patou

The popular phrase “Enjoy it” (“Enjoy”) was almost the credo of French designer Jean Patou. He was one of the most daring designers of the beginning of the 20th century, who was not afraid to become the first to slightly open female legs to the middle of the knee, and who managed to masterfully combine his interests with the desires of female customers (the release of the first tanning lotion was also left for him). But the main turn of fame began for Jean with the aroma of Joy – one of the most expensive perfumes in the history.

By the end of the 20s, the world was overtaken by the Great Depression – a difficult time, not foreshadowing joy and carelessness. However, Jean Patou set out to resist the approaching storm. At the same time, the couturier ordered pafrumer Henri Almeras to create a fragrance that could become a ray of light, inspiration and joy in a difficult historical period. And to create a pyramid of Bulgarian roses and jasmine, Jean did not skimp on the most expensive natural ingredients. As a result, a bottle of 30 ml cost customers about a thousand US dollars – quite a large amount, given the situation with the global economic crisis. However, Patou believed that real perfume can and should be expensive (read also: “The 5 most crazy perfume bottles in perfumery”).

"Red Moscow" from "New Dawn"

"Red Moscow"Empress Maria Fedorovna

This fragrance, along with "Lily of the Valley silver" and "Golden Scythians" became the perfume symbol of the Soviet era, which after many years continues to enjoy high popularity. Among his admirers is the famous theater and film actress Renata Litvinova, who believes that it is precisely in him that the Russian femininity was clearly expressed. “This is ours, dear, with nothing confusing. They are a little sugary, concentrated, but these spirits have their own face, ”comments Renata.

Moreover, “Red Moscow” is a perfume with a history. It is believed that the recognizable composition was created for Empress Maria Feodorovna by French perfumer Heinrich Brokar. He presented the royal person with a bouquet of wax flowers, which exuded a charming aroma. Maria Fyodorovna made a great impression on the fragrance, so very soon she visited a perfumery factory in France and offered to open her branch in Russia. As a token of gratitude, Brokar called the fragrance "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet."

The opening of the branch took place, but without the participation of the empress. In 1921 the Novaya Zarya factory began its work. Her work was led by Augustus Michel, who came up with a brilliant idea – to begin mass production of Maria Fedorovna's favorite fragrance. The recognizable pyramid of "Red Moscow" was made up of jasmine, rose and sweet spices with a spectacular aftertaste of vanilla and toffee. The aroma composition remains unchanged to this day.


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